Articles
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Scientific Styles
November 29, 2022
Allen Newell (AI pioneer and Turing Award winner) once shared his thoughts on the style of scientific practice. Even today his observations are helpful, particularly as we revisit our own styles and choose new research topics.
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Hyalite Canyon
January 15, 2022
Hyalite
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Alpental Falls
January 2, 2022
Alpental Falls is a single pitch flow of WI2+ across from the ski resort. Early in the season the ice is brittle and poorly formed. Still, we decidied to give it a shot, and the outcome was as sketchy as expected.
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Colonial Peak (First Attempt)
June 25, 2021
Colonial Peak is located in the North Cascades, about six or so miles off Highway 20. Colonial isn’t very tall by local standards; it’s only 7,771ft tall. But the peak should by no means be underestimated. The main route has one of the most brutal approaches I’ve ever experienced. And for some reason we decided to climb this car-to-car on the hottest day of the heatwave.
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Prusik Peak (First Attempt)
June 12, 2021
Prusik Peak is located in the Core zone of the Enchantments. The West Ridge has a few pitches of low fifth-class climbing, with a short section of unprotected friction slab as its crux.
Our goal was to climb it in a single car-to-car excursion. Unfortunatley when we arrived the ridge was soaking wet from snow melt and rain. Any chance of maintaining friction on the third pitch seemed unlikely, so we decided to bail with the intention to come back later in the season.
Nevertheless, we managed to have a long day outside and get some nice photos in the process.
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Hog's Back on Mount Hood
May 22, 2021
The Hogs Back goes directly up the south side of Mt Hood.
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Kautz Glacier on Mount Rainer (First Attempt)
May 8, 2021
The Kautz Glacier
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Lover's Lane on Lane Peak
March 10, 2021
Lane Peak is a devilish-looking mountain, located in the Tatoosh range of Washington’s Cascade mountains. Lover’s Lane is a narrow snow gully that runs up
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Pinnacle Gully on Mount Washington
February 21, 2020
Pinnacle Gully is a relatively narrow passageway of steep ice on Mount Washington. The route begins at Huntington Ravine and terminates in the alpine garden, just a forty-minute walk back down to the tree line. The climb consists of three rope-stretching pitches. (Bring a 70m rope if you like to wander.) It goes without saying that conditions will depend on the season. In February, we experienced ice of varying quality: from young ice that was soft and would hold an entire pick, to brittle glassy sheets that shattered with a tap. There was also the occasional flow of water running underneath that kept us moving forward. But for the most part, the ice was thick, and we felt secure with all of our placements.
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Price Glacier on Mount Shuksan
August 5, 2018
The Price Glacier